Slow cranking, no crank at all, dash lights flicker, dead battery in the morning. We load test the system properly and replace only what failed, not the whole rotation.
We start with the battery, load test it under draw, then test the alternator under load to confirm output. If both pass, we move to the starter, the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, and parasitic draw testing. The point is to find the one bad part, not replace three and hope. Diagnostic fee is $97 shop, $147 mobile, credits to the repair.
A weak battery cranks slowly and may click rapidly when you turn the key. A bad starter typically gives one solid clunk and silence, or cranks fine when cold and refuses when warm. A bad alternator runs OK until the battery dies later that day. We confirm with a load test in five minutes on site.
Yes. Most batteries are a 15 to 30 minute swap in the driveway. We stock common Group 35, 65, 78, and 94R batteries on the van. If we do not have your size on board we order it in for the same week and come back. Battery sizing and load result both go on the written estimate.
That is a parasitic draw, something is pulling power with the truck off. We pull each fuse with an ammeter on the negative cable until the draw drops, then trace it to the failed module or stuck relay. Common culprits are interior lights, glove box lights, aftermarket radios, and bad ignition switches.
Pick up the phone. We will either fix it today or tell you straight when we can.